Day 14: The Church (and Good-bye)

Having finished our visit of the museums, along with lunch, we headed out through St. Peter’s Square to the gateway entrance for our scavi tour. The Swiss Guards were very friendly and helpful in showing us where we needed to go and what we needed to do. Plus, those guys have awesome uniforms.

We headed through the gate and back towards the Vatican’s scavi offices. There we met up with our tour guide and about 8 other people, including a particularly jolly and rotund priest from Germany? Our guide led us down into the crypt area of St. Peter’s Basilica filling us in on the history of the site dating back thousands of years to when it was a circus area dedicated to chariot races for the Romans. St. Peter was eventually martyred in the circus and buried nearby. His burial spot would become the altar space for a a new church once Christianity became the accepted religion of the region. Over the centuries, this church was added upon and grew. Eventually it would become the largest church is Christendom, the Basilica that stands today.

As part of the tour, you get to visit the old pagan necropolis and see many of the early tombs. You can still see the decor of statuary and paintings that adorned many of the family niches. You also see the sarcophagi of many who were buried in the area and walk along what were once the streets around the necropolis, examining how the ancient Romans decorated their tombs to resemble houses. Our guide was very informative regarding the history of both pagan rituals and early Christians during the eras of the necropolis. Continuing the tour, you wind up in areas that were populated by early Christians and then come to the spot where St. Peter was believed to have been originally buried. The actual bones of Peter were moved a couple of centuries ago (and you see those a few steps later after a turning a corner) because one of the Popes had the bones removed from their sacred resting spot in order to have them adorn his private chapel for his own worship. Later the bones were re-interred as close to the original spot as possible and that is the last place you visit on the tour. Once everyone had a chance to view what is visible of the remains and burial place of St. Peter, our friendly neighborhood tourmate, the Priest, led everyone in a prayer and we exited the underbelly of the Basilica by walking (briskly) through some of the Popes’ private chapels and past many (dead) previous popes in repose in the modern-day necropolis, or crypt. For anyone planning a trip to Rome in the near future, I highly recommend the tour. It’s insightful, interesting, and one of the best things we did during our time in Italy.

Exiting the crypt, we found ourselves around the corner from the portico that fronts St. Peter’s. One of the many nice things about the scavi tour was that it lets you out right at the church’s entrances so there’s no need to go back through the very long security lines for St. Peter’s. We walked into the church and began exploring the basilica. I opted to listen to Rick Steve’s audioguide while we walked around, but in the end, it wasn’t that informative and some of his side commentary is just annoying. So I recommend just carrying a good guidebook with you!

Now, my unsolicited opinion on St. Peter’s Basilica is that it is completely underwhelming. Of all the grand churches I’ve seen so far in my life, this one was just kind of a let down. Perhaps it’s because it was so built-up in my head, I don’t know, but I was slightly disappointed by it’s lack of “exquisiteness.” Yes, it’s big. Yes, it has fine artwork. But it just lacks a little something. The guidebooks say that the architects of the building wanted to scale everything so that the whole space was NOT immense, but rather seemed attainable to the common man coming to worship here. I can say that they successfully achieved that mission! That said, it was still pretty cool to walk around.

Down the middle of the nave was one of my favorite parts. There are floorplates inscribed with the names of different churches based on how large they are. So you could, in theory, walk from the front of St. Peter’s straight down the nave and walk the length of say, Chartres Cathedral in France, and when you reach what would be the entrance door in Chartres, there is a plaque showing you where that would be so you can better understand just how much larger St. Peter’s is than all of those other churches. I know I’m probably explaining that poorly, but it was nifty. Unfortunately, we didn’t get to visit the altar or apse of the church because they were closed of for a group of special pilgrims (who we did get to see make quite an entrance through the special front doors that no one else gets to open and chanting down the length of the church). This was unfortunate as apparently a full third of the church is behind the Bernini altar that you’ll see in some of the pics. Plus, we had really hoped to do the crypt tour to see more of that area, but that is only accessible from the front of the church near the altar– meaning we could get there. Ah well.

After spending some time visiting the basilica, we headed up to climb the cupola of the church. There are two different tickets you can get to do this- you can climb stairs all the way to the top or you can take an elevator up to the roof and then climb another 323 steps to the top of the dome. We took the elevator! This part of the trip was more for the Husband than me, but I did appreciate being able to see how much larger the church was from inside the dome.

Ready for some pics??

the outside of the scavi office (No pictures allowed on the tour.)

the ceiling on the portico going into the church

St. Peter’s

the right side of the nave

looking up towards the cupola

some lovely painting going on up there

Bernini’s 7-story bronze canopy over the altar

so tall…

If memory serves, this is the tomb of Pope John XXIII.

a close-up of the altar

looking through the altar to the apse of the church

looking down one of the transepts

Michelangelo’s Pieta

the Pieta’s chapel

RIP JPII

the current resting place of Pope John Paul II

ceiling shot

the ceiling down the nave

another chapel, another pope

another ceiling picture

the Holy Door that only opens every 25 years

taken from the roof St. Peter’s behind Jesus and his Disciples

the dome, from the roof

the dome we were about to climb

 

looking down on the space BEHIND the altar (near the apse)– This perspective is what really amazed me about the church. You just had no idea of the immense size until you saw that you fit an entire church and congregation between the apse and altar. This view was worth the dome climb.

 

the mosaic work of the cupola

 

part of the stairs one had to climb to get to the top of the dome

 

looking out onto St. Peter’s Square from the top of the dome

 

looking out at Rome

 

Can you spot the Colosseum??

 

Aside from the hoards of people, we did enjoy our visit to see the basilica. After having climbed the dome and educating a slightly ignorant American couple about some of Roman history, we headed out to do a little souvenir shopping and then headed back to the hotel to rest. For our final dinner in Rome, we headed back to the Taverna de Coppelle with its liters of wine, delicious fritto misto, and scrumptious pizzas. I don’t remember what the Husband had but my final Italian meal consisted of the fried zucchini flowers and a pizza Margherita. And it was wonderful! Of course, after dinner we grabbed our last gelato and found seats at the fountain in front of the Pantheon to just sit, gaze, wonder, and enjoy. We both hated to leave but agreed that we would come back soon. Having sat and soaked in the night for as long as we could, we finally headed back to the hotel to figure out how the heck to re-pack our suitcases and get ready for flying home the next day. After a light breakfast the following morning (we had a really early flight), we headed out to the airport.

I can honestly say that I loved every minute of our Italian vacation and I CANNOT WAIT to go back! We had so many great experiences, saw so many wonderful things, and ate unbelievably well. We enjoyed the company of our travel companions in Naples and had a blast getting lost in Rome on our own. We already have a list going on what else we need to see on our next visit, along with places we saw that needed more time, and where we don’t feel the need to go back. We have thousands more pics (some of which I need to get around to printing so we can have an actual album of the trip… soon!) and a few trinkets to remind us of our travels. Our world is so fascinating that I’m glad that the Husband and I do what we can to get out there and experience some of it. I’m not sure to where the next trip will be yet, but there are always plans for another trip, and there will also now be plans for a return trip to Italy someday as well!

Our flights home were  uneventful and as always is was good to get back to our bed, our house, our space. However, we both immediately missed Italy and are looking forward to our next visit. For now though, Arrivederci Italia!

Day 4: The Pope’s Rome

Who says the Pope is only at home in the Vatican? He is still, in fact, the Bishop of Rome as well. And on day four of the trip, we paid a visit to the seat of the Bishop of the Rome at San Giovanni in Laterano. This church is a huge cathedral that houses the actual seat (the chair) of the Bishop of Rome. When a new pope is elected to the papacy, he isn’t actually considered Pope until he comes to St. John’s (San Giovanni) and sits in the bishop’s chair. Because it is the official head of the church in Rome, there are tons of popes buried within the church. And supposedly, the heads of St. Peter and St. Paul are encased in an altar near the center of the church. There is a lot of great statuary throughout the building, including the husband’s favorite, an accusatory St. Andrew who could make even a nun nervous. The church is one of the oldest in Rome, dating back to the time of Constantine and the 4th century. However, what stands today is due largely to reconstruction during the Renaissance under Pope Sixtus V and later in the 1700s under Pope Innocent X and Pope Clement XII. Now, here’s a shocking piece of info: there’s an obelisk outside this church too! This obelisk is actually the tallest remaining one in the world and was created under Thutmose III during the 15th century BCE.

the exterior of the FRONT of the church — Funny story, we actually accidentally entered on the side of the church and it took us quite a while to figure out why our orientation was so off with the guidebooks!

statue of Constantine outside the church

It truly is amazing just how many of these there are in Rome!

looking down the nave from the transept

the altar at the interception of the nave and transepts, supposedly holding the heads of Sts. Peter and Paul

heads of saints (in the gold encasements)

some fresco work

Like many other churches we encountered on the trip, San Giovanni did not disappoint on the elaborate ceilings.

more ceilings

part of one organ

There were larger-than-lifesize statues of each apostle lining the nave.

another apostle, carrying Jesus’ shroud

Protestant churches take note- this is how you do an altar. 😉

the apse holding the seat to the Bishopric of Rome

THE seat

Oh, how those Romans do love a good oculus!

Whilst in the neighborhood, we walked beside the church for some views of the old city walls and ancient aqueducts before heading across the street. Across the street is another important pilgrimage site, the Holy Stairs or Scala Sancta. Back in the day, Constantine’s mom brought these stairs all the way to Rome from Jerusalem. Supposedly these are the stairs from the palace of Pontius Pilate. The same stairs that Jesus is said to have ascended and descended during the Passion. Claims are now made that the blood droplets preserved on the wood of the steps belonged to Jesus. Pilgrims from all over the world come to climb the steps on their knees.

pilgrims on the Holy Stairs

With a brief visit to the stairs done, we started a super long and hot walk down towards the Circus Maximus. The Circus Maximus was the largest stadium of Ancient Rome, built over 2500 years ago. It could seat between 150,000 and 250,000 spectators for chariot races (or for martyring Christians/criminals, etc). The Palatine Hill overlooks the Circus so the emperors always had excellent seats for whatever games or shows they were viewing. Now, little remains of the ancient structure. Instead, it’s a large open park that hosts campfires at night and picnics during the day.

current excavations at the circus

the best seat in the house- the ruins of the Palatine palace overlooking the stadium

taken from what would have been the seating area, looking down the circus (from about 3/4 down the length)

taken from the middle of the “track”

Being that it was so unbelievably hot out and we’d already walked several miles that day, it was time for our daily siesta. You know the routine: light lunch, shower, and nap. After that we were refreshed and ready to head out for the evening. We decided to stop by Santa Maria Maggiore, a large church just a couple of blocks from our hotel. We had heard that it would be worth a visit because of its decor and its manger relics. However, we ran into a special Mass and ended up standing and watching that for over an hour. Best we could tell, it was a Mass celebrating quite a few young men who were entering the priesthood. As luck would have it, we were standing very near where the processional ended after the Mass, so we were amongst the family and friends of many of these new priests who were giving and receiving hugs, kisses, and well wishes. It was really a special moment to partake in. The nave of the church was very lovely, but we didn’t really get to explore as much as we would have liked since the church was closing soon after the Mass ended. Oh, well- something to add to the list for the next trip!

altar and apse mosaics

upper nave decor

After our attendance at Mass, we realized we were pretty hungry so we headed out looking for dinner. We ended up at a place called Est Est Est Pizzeria. It was recommended by one of the guidebooks and was pretty decent. I didn’t love it as much as the previous night’s, but dinner was still pretty good. The staff was again pretty friendly and the house red was delicious. Again we shared a fritto misti antipasti. The husband had a pizza Margherita and I had a pizza primavera (with tomatoes and zucchini). The crust on these was thicker but both were still tasty. And price was excellent as well, about the same as the Taverna de Coppelle. After dinner, of course, it was time for our nightly gelato. This time we hit up La Gelateria Santa Maria Maggiore near the hotel. The portions were huge and it was delicious! One of the best of the trip…. though I find myself thinking that about several places, haha! The husband branched out and had pineapple, crema, and strawberry. I had chocolate and mint chocolate chip– YUM! Gelato in hand, we decided to walk towards the Trevi Fountain. On our way, we swung by the Fountain of Triton, and on our way to THAT, we accidentally stumbled upon the Quattro Fontane (or Four Fountains).

Triton Fountain

a close-up of Triton, riding his fish. Anyone want to break into “Under the Sea?”

Trevi Fountain

Trevi

detail on the fountain

more detail on the sculpture

the crowd @ Trevi